Every bespoke conversation reaches the same fork: which gold? The honest answer — from a workshop that casts all three — is that each karat is the right choice for someone. Here is how to find yours.
What karat actually means
Pure gold is 24 karat — and too soft for daily jewellery. Karatage measures how much pure gold is in the alloy: 18K is 75% gold, 14K is 58.5%, and 9K is 37.5%, with the balance made up of metals that add strength and tune the colour.
18K — the luxury standard
Richest colour, warmest glow, and the traditional choice for fine gemstone work: an 18K yellow setting makes a blue sapphire sing. Softer than lower karats, so better suited to pieces worn with a little care — and the premium is real, since you are buying twice the gold of 9K.
14K — the modern sweet spot
Most of the world's engagement rings are 14K for good reason: nearly the colour of 18K with noticeably better scratch resistance, at a friendlier price. For an everyday sapphire engagement ring, it is the pragmatist's champion.
9K — durable and accessible
Paler in colour but the hardest-wearing of the three, 9K suits robust everyday pieces and keeps beautiful design within reach. British and Australian jewellery traditions have used it proudly for generations.
Colour: yellow, white or rose
Alloys create the palette — copper for rose, palladium or nickel-free whitening for white gold (ours is rhodium-finished for brightness). Colour choice is really about the stone: teals love white gold's coolness; padparadschas glow against rose. We think through metal-and-stone pairings in every bespoke commission.
Undecided? Bring the question to our workshop — with the stone in hand, the answer usually announces itself.
Continue your gem education
Ring Settings Guide · Commissioning Bespoke Jewellery · Sapphire Engagement Rings · browse all Gem Guides — or explore design your own ring.