The Library · Free Buyer’s Handbooks
Anna, our FGAA-qualified gemmologist, on why a family gem house publishes its market intelligence free — and what the headlines will never tell you on their own.
Written by Anna Lulinkova — FGAA-Qualified Gemmologist, Ministry of Gems®
Contents
- Foreword: The Year Colour Made the News
- The Record Run: Colour at Auction
- The Supply Story: Where the Fine Goods Went
- The Shows: Tucson, Bangkok and the Mood of the Trade
- The Metal Bill: Gold and the Cost of the Mount
- The Diamond Lesson: Lab-Grown and the Two Markets
- Words That Move Money: Terminology and Disclosure
- The Private Buyer in 2026: Reading the Weather
- House Notes: After a Year of Records
Foreword: The Year Colour Made the News
In June this year a client wrote to me with a link and one question. The link was to the results of Christie's Magnificent Jewels sale in New York, where a 15.49 ct Kashmir sapphire ring had just made US$2.1 million against an estimate of US$1.2 to 1.8 million, in a sale that totalled US$49.7 million with every lot sold (National Jeweler, June 2026). The question was: "Does this mean I have left it too late?"
She was shopping for a two-carat Ceylon sapphire. The honest answer — and this book is really that answer, expanded to length — was no. The stone in that headline and the stone in her budget do not live in the same market. They scarcely live in the same industry. But I understood why she asked, because the headlines have been relentless: a record emerald, a record alexandrite, a record Paraíba tourmaline, sale totals climbing while other categories of luxury flatten. If all you read is headlines, 2026 looks like a year in which coloured stones became unaffordable. If you read what the trade reads, it looks like something more interesting: a market splitting in two, with fierce competition at the very top and genuine softness in the middle, where private buyers actually shop.
> A headline tells you what one buyer paid, once. A market tells you what you should pay next.
Why we publish this
The coloured stone trade runs on information that rarely reaches the people spending the money. Dealers read Gemworld International's GemGuide pricing intelligence, laboratory bulletins, auction results and show reports; most private buyers read advertising. That asymmetry is where bad purchases come from, and closing it is the reason this report exists. We publish our market reading free, as we have published our buyer's handbooks free, because an informed client makes better decisions, asks better questions, and — we will be honest — tends to become a better client. Nothing in this volume requires you to buy anything, from us or from anyone.
What is in this book
The chapters that follow take the year's news in order of importance. First, the auction record run: what actually sold, for what, and what those numbers do and do not mean. Second, the supply story — mine output, recovery rates and the quiet thinning of fine goods that sits underneath every record. Third, the trade shows, from a tariff-rattled Tucson to the Bangkok tenders, where the industry takes its own pulse. Fourth, gold, because the metal around a stone has been repricing jewellery all on its own. Fifth, the lesson of the diamond market's collision with laboratory-grown goods, and what it teaches the coloured world. Sixth, the movement to harmonise the trade's words — terminology, disclosure, laboratory standards — which we think is the most consequential story of the lot for ordinary buyers. And finally, what all of it means for you: not as an investor, because this book will not treat gems as investments, but as a private buyer who would simply like to stop being the least informed person in the transaction.
Where we stand
Disclosure, as always, before anything else: we are participants in the market this book describes. Ministry of Gems® is a Sri Lankan family house, three generations in the Ceylon gem fields since the 1960s, with our own mines and cutting house, specialising in Ceylon and Australian sapphires. Good news for sapphire flatters our shelves; we have tried to report it no more warmly than the sources justify, and every claim in this book carries its source and date in the text so you can weigh it yourself. Every stone we sell is assessed at my desk in Sydney before it is listed, and the standards this book urges on you are the ones applied there.
How to read a market report
One instruction before you begin. Market intelligence is a lens, not a signal. Nothing in these pages is a recommendation to buy, to wait, to sell a family piece or to treat a gemstone as a financial asset — the trade's own history is littered with people who did, and Chapter 8 repeats the warning at length. What a year of records changes is not whether you should buy a coloured stone; it is how carefully you should buy one, and how much a small knowledge advantage is now worth. Read the numbers, learn the weather, and then do what this house has always asked of its readers: when you finally stand in front of the stone, buy the one you cannot stop looking at, at a price that matches what it truly is.
— Anna, FGAA Ministry of Gems, Sydney
- Auction headlines describe a different market from the one private buyers shop in: 2025 and 2026 records reflect fierce competition for exceptional stones, not the price of good ones.
- The coloured stone market is splitting in two — thin, fiercely contested fine goods at the top and genuine softness in the middle tiers where most buyers actually purchase.
- The trade runs on pricing guides, laboratory bulletins and show reports that rarely reach consumers; this book exists to close that information gap, free.
- Nothing in this report is investment advice — market knowledge should change how carefully you buy, never whether a gem is treated as a financial asset.
The Record Run: Colour at Auction
Coloured stones set records at every major auction house through 2025 and 2026 — and the pattern in the results says more than the numbers themselves.
On 10 December 2025, in Christie's New York saleroom, a Tiffany & Co. necklace centred on a 13.54 ct Paraíba tourmaline sold for US$4.2 million. That figure set two records at once — the highest total price for a Paraíba tourmaline at auction, and at roughly US$310,000 per carat, the highest price per carat (National Jeweler, 12 December 2025). A tourmaline. A species that, within living memory, sat firmly in the collector's cabinet while rubies and sapphires took the headlines. If you want a single image for what has happened to coloured stones at auction, that necklace is it.
The run, in order
The run had been building for a year before that evening. At Sotheby's New York in June 2025, a High Jewelry sale totalled US$31.4 million with 95 per cent of lots sold; an 8.62 ct Colombian emerald ring by JAR more than doubled its high estimate at US$1.6 million, and a circa-1930s 7.50 ct Kashmir sapphire brought US$1.4 million against a US$500,000 to 700,000 estimate (National Jeweler, 17 June 2025). In November 2025, Sotheby's Geneva took a combined US$51.3 million across its Royal & Noble Jewels and High Jewelry sales, with a 12.78 ct Burmese ruby ring doubling its upper estimate at about US$1.4 million, a Van Cleef & Arpels ring holding a 7.69 ct Kashmir sapphire near US$1.2 million, and a Cartier necklace with an 11.78 ct Colombian emerald around US$1.7 million (Rapaport News, 13 November 2025). Then the Paraíba in December, and the Kashmir at US$2.1 million in Christie's white-glove June 2026 sale.
Behind the run stand the benchmarks set in late 2024, which the market has been chasing since. The 37 ct Aga Khan emerald brooch made US$8.8 million at Christie's Geneva in November 2024, a world auction record for an emerald, overtaking Elizabeth Taylor's Bulgari brooch after thirteen years (National Jeweler, 13 November 2024). The same month a 17.97 ct unheated Burmese ruby fetched US$5.4 million at Phillips in Geneva, and in December a 16.53 ct alexandrite ring made US$1.9 million at Sotheby's New York — more than triple its high estimate, and an auction record for the species (National Jeweler, 18 December 2024).
What the records share
Read the lots rather than the totals and a pattern emerges. Nearly every record carried the same three credentials: a named origin of the classic kind — Kashmir, Burma, Colombia; an untreated or minimally treated stone, certified as such; and, more often than not, a signed jewel from a great house. These are the five premiums our pricing handbook anatomised — no-heat, origin, provenance and their kin — stacked on a single object and set alight by two bidders who both want it. Christie's own review of 2025 confirmed the direction of travel: demand surged for emeralds, rubies, sapphires and Paraíba tourmaline while white-diamond demand merely stabilised (Rapaport News, 2 March 2026). Money that once chased colourless carats is chasing colour, and serious buyers have noticed what the supply chapters of this book will confirm: the objects setting these records genuinely cannot be reordered.
> An auction record is a fact about one stone on one evening. The scarcity behind it is the only part that follows you home.
How to read a result
Auction results reward a little literacy. The estimate is not a valuation; it is marketing, set low enough to draw bidders into the room. The instructive number is the ratio — a stone that doubles or triples its high estimate, like the alexandrite or the JAR emerald, is telling you at least two well-advised buyers refused to let it go, which is a statement about depth of demand, not one person's enthusiasm. Sell-through rates say the same thing in aggregate: 95 per cent of lots sold in June 2025, every lot sold in June 2026. When almost nothing is passed in, consignors and buyers agree about where value sits. That agreement, not any single hammer price, is what "strong market" actually means.
What a record is not
Now the corrective, because this is where headlines mislead. An auction record is not a price list. Auction prices sit in a country of their own — competitive, theatrical, thick with provenance value — and the gap between that country and a retail shop is wide, as we wrote at chapter length in The Price of Colour. A record is not a promise of appreciation either; for every stone that resells triumphantly there are many that quietly cannot, and the costs of selling are punishing for private owners. What a record run genuinely tells you is that exceptional natural colour is scarce, that seasoned buyers know it, and that the credentials they paid premiums for — origin, treatment status, documentation — are the same credentials you should demand, in proportion, on a stone at one-thousandth the price. The record run is not your market. The standards underneath it are.
- Coloured stones set successive auction records through 2025 and 2026, from the US$4.2 million Paraíba tourmaline at Christie's to the US$2.1 million Kashmir sapphire in a sold-out June 2026 sale.
- The late-2024 benchmarks — the US$8.8 million Aga Khan emerald, a US$5.4 million Burmese ruby and an alexandrite record — opened a run the market has chased ever since.
- Almost every record stone carried the same credentials: classic origin, certified untreated or minimally treated status, and often a signed jewel — the familiar premiums stacked on one object.
- Auction records are rarity signals, not price lists or promises of appreciation; borrow the standards behind them, not the numbers.
The Supply Story: Where the Fine Goods Went
Underneath every auction record sits a mine report — and in 2026 the mine reports read thin at the top, crowded in the middle.
Twenty-five thousandths of a carat per tonne. That was the recovery rate for premium rubies at Montepuez in Mozambique — the 75 per cent Gemfields-owned deposit that now anchors world ruby supply — across the six months to 30 June 2026 (National Jeweler, 31 July 2026). Move a tonne of rock, recover 0.025 ct of fine ruby. The company's revenue was excellent; its ruby and emerald auctions brought US$102.9 million in the first half of 2026, roughly 72 per cent above the prior year. But revenue and abundance are different things. The money is rising partly because the finest material is not.
Ruby: one deposit standing
The ruby story of the decade is geographic concentration. Output from Myanmar's Mogok Valley has fallen through depletion and the privatisation of mine ownership, leaving Montepuez as the world's principal source of ruby (National Jeweler, 19 May 2025). One deposit, one company's auction calendar, one region's politics: that is a narrow pipe for a whole market, and it has already been tested — Gemfields' record-setting December 2024 ruby auction, which averaged US$321.94 per carat across mixed-quality goods, was achieved while post-election civil unrest disrupted logistics in Mozambique itself (National Jeweler, 19 December 2024). Our Ruby Buyer's Handbook records what this scarcity has done to the trade's own reference tools, with GemGuide cutting its chart for unenhanced Burmese ruby from ten quality grades to four in its July/August 2026 issue because there were too few findable stones left to price across the old grades.
Emerald: a shortage inside a glut
Emerald is running both directions at once. Dealers report there are simply not enough untreated, no-oil emeralds to meet demand, sustaining steep premiums, and no major new emerald deposit has disrupted supply in roughly forty years (National Jeweler, 19 May 2025). Yet in the same period Gemfields temporarily suspended production at Kagem in Zambia, citing an oversupply of discounted Zambian emeralds on the market. Read those two facts together and you have the whole architecture of modern coloured stone supply: commercial goods abundant to the point of glut, fine goods thin to the point of famine. The averages in between tell you very little; the grade tells you everything.
Sapphire: tripled at the top
Sapphire, our own first language, follows the same curve. US dealers report that fine untreated sapphires have roughly tripled in price since the pandemic, while more than 90 per cent of the sapphires on the market are treated in some way (National Jeweler, 19 May 2025). The untreated minority is where the pressure concentrates. It is also why sources once considered secondary are being looked at again: GIA's Winter 2025 Gems & Gemology characterised a newly identified primary, hard-rock source of gem sapphire in Montana — and the fact that a single new occurrence merits a research paper tells you how rarely new supply arrives. Closer to home, Australia has supplied sapphire for over a century — the New England fields of New South Wales once produced close to 70 per cent of world supply — and its basalt-hosted blue, parti and teal stones, once dismissed as too dark, are now in strong international demand (Jeweller Magazine, 9 February 2026). We have cut Australian stones for years, and the partis and teals in our /collections/teal-sapphires are the same material the international trade has lately rediscovered.
> Mines do not run out of gems. They run out of the gems worth cutting.
What thinning supply means
Be precise about what this chapter does and does not claim. It does not claim coloured stones are running out — treated and commercial goods are plentiful, and some are oversupplied. It claims the top of the pyramid is narrowing: fewer unheated sapphires, fewer no-oil emeralds, fine ruby squeezed through one Mozambican deposit at 0.025 ct a tonne. For a private buyer the consequence is practical, not urgent. Documentation of treatment status matters more each year, because the untreated premium is being built on genuinely thinner ground. And the honest, disclosed, treated stone — the category the supply squeeze never touches — remains the quiet bargain of the whole market.
- Premium ruby recovery at Montepuez ran at just 0.025 carats per tonne in the first half of 2026, even as Gemfields' auction revenue jumped roughly 72 per cent to US$102.9 million.
- With Mogok output falling through depletion and privatised ownership, world ruby supply now depends principally on a single Mozambican deposit.
- Emerald shows the market's whole architecture at once: discounted commercial Zambian goods oversupplied to the point of a mine suspension, while no-oil stones remain too scarce to meet demand.
- Fine untreated sapphires have roughly tripled in price since the pandemic while over 90 per cent of market sapphires are treated — making written treatment status more valuable every year.
The Shows: Tucson, Bangkok and the Mood of the Trade
Twice a year the coloured stone world gathers to take its own pulse — and in 2026 the reading was two markets wearing one name.
There were gaps on the floor at Tucson this year. Ahead of the February 2026 shows, international dealers from countries including Sri Lanka, Thailand and Australia withdrew from the GJX show rather than face paying United States tariffs upfront on unsold consignment inventory — goods they might carry home again — with some rerouting their selling to Hong Kong instead (JCK, 14 January 2026). Tucson is the coloured stone trade's annual census, and when Ceylon dealers decide the trade's flagship gathering is not worth the customs risk, the geography of the business is shifting under everyone's feet.
The trade's calendar
For readers new to the rhythm: the coloured stone year runs on a circuit. Tucson opens it each northern winter, a sprawl of shows across one Arizona town where a season's sentiment is set. The Las Vegas jewellery week follows mid-year, reading the American retail temperature; Bangkok and Hong Kong anchor the Asian fairs, closest to the cutting hubs where most of the world's colour is actually worked, as our pricing handbook's supply-chain chapter maps. Threaded between them are the rough tenders — Gemfields' scheduled ruby and emerald auctions above all — where miners sell to cutters and the rawest prices in the business are discovered. A private buyer attends none of these. The mood of each still reaches your jeweller's counter within months.
What the dealers said
The mood among those who did attend was candid. Stuart Robertson of Gemworld International — the house behind the GemGuide pricing intelligence the trade prices from — observed that ruby's relentless pricing has pushed many American buyers sideways into garnet, spinel and red tourmaline, and described the current trade as primarily a sapphire, emerald and garnet market, with mid-tier goods squeezed hardest by weak discretionary spending (JCK, 14 January 2026). Sit with that sentence, because for our money it is the year's most useful market summary. The top is untouchable, the substitutes are thriving, and the middle — the two-to-ten-thousand-dollar stone, the heart of the private market — is where sellers are feeling the cold. JNA's outlook had already pointed the same way a year earlier: coloured demand strengthening through economic headwinds, but prices expected to settle to more reasonable levels after the unprecedented spikes of the Covid years, with rarities such as Paraíba, padparadscha, spinel and alexandrite gaining collector traction (JNA, 15 January 2025).
> The trade's mood is a weather report from upstream. It reaches your jeweller's window about a season late.
Bangkok and the tenders
The other pulse points sit in Asia, where the rough actually changes hands. Gemfields' May 2026 higher-quality emerald auction, held with viewings in Bangkok, realised US$26.8 million — 36 of 37 lots sold, 99 per cent of carats — at an average of US$146.08 per carat, with the company noting buyer caution tied to macro uncertainty and a roughly 10 per cent depreciation in the rupee that squeezed the Indian cutting trade's buying power (National Jeweler, 1 June 2026). A month later its Trade Select ruby auction brought US$23.1 million, selling 82 of 89 lots at an average of US$66.30 per carat (Gemfields, 29 June 2026). Set that against the US$321.94 average of the record December 2024 ruby auction and you see how violently composition matters: these are different mixes of goods, not a collapsing market. Rough tenders are among the most honest prices in the trade — dealers bidding their own money, no theatre — and in 2026 they say demand is real, selective and increasingly sensitive to grade.
Reading the room from outside it
What should a private buyer do with trade-show intelligence? Not trade on it. Use it to calibrate patience. When the trade itself reports a soft middle, a buyer of mid-priced goods can afford to be unhurried, to compare widely, and to negotiate without embarrassment — the pressure is on the seller's side of the counter. When the same reports describe fine unheated goods as scarce and fiercely held, a buyer who finds an honest one at a fair price should not expect the market to produce a queue of alternatives by Friday. And when Gemworld reports the trade migrating toward garnet and spinel, it is telling you where the value-hunting professionals take their own budgets — species our Field Guide to Coloured Stones covers at length. The shows are the market talking to itself. This chapter's only trick is eavesdropping.
- Tariff exposure ahead of Tucson 2026 drove dealers from Sri Lanka, Thailand and Australia to withdraw from GJX, with some rerouting business to Hong Kong — a real shift in the trade's geography.
- Gemworld International's Stuart Robertson described today's trade as primarily a sapphire, emerald and garnet market, with ruby priced into substitution and mid-tier goods squeezed hardest.
- The 2026 Gemfields tenders — US$26.8 million in emerald at US$146.08 per carat, US$23.1 million in ruby at US$66.30 — show real but selective demand, with auction averages driven by grade mix.
- Trade intelligence is for calibrating patience, not trading: be unhurried in the soft middle market, and decisive when an honest fine stone appears, because the top is genuinely thin.
The Metal Bill: Gold and the Cost of the Mount
Buyers watch the stone while the mount quietly reprices itself — and after gold's historic run, the metal is rewriting jewellery budgets on its own.
Compare two invoices for the same ring design, a few years apart, and the line that moves is often not the stone. Gold has spent much of the past two years setting and resetting record prices, and while this book will not pin a number to a metal that moves daily, the direction has been unmistakable and the jewellery trade has repriced around it. A mount that was a modest fraction of a ring's cost in 2021 can be a substantial one now. For a coloured stone buyer this matters in three practical ways, and none of them requires you to hold a view on where gold goes next.
The frame got expensive
First, finished jewellery has risen in price even where loose stones have not. When a retailer's tag climbs, buyers naturally assume the gem is dearer; often it is the 18ct shank, the gallery, the labour and the metal markup underneath. This is worth knowing at the counter, because it changes the negotiation. A jeweller has little room to move on metal — it is close to a commodity cost — but stones carry the discretionary margin. Ask for the stone and mount priced separately, in writing. Sellers who refuse to split the figure are usually protecting the soft part of the price. Separating them also lets you apply the discipline that runs through every book in this series: convert the stone to a per-carat price and judge it against comparable stones, not against a bundled ring.
Second, the trade has adapted in ways you will see in shop windows: lighter mounts, finer shanks, more open galleries, and at the commercial tier a drift toward alternative metals. None of this is dishonest, but a delicate mount holding a heavy stone deserves a durability conversation, particularly for daily-wear rings — our engagement handbook treats settings at proper length.
Choosing metal when gold is dear
The choice of metal itself deserves a colder eye than it usually gets. In Australia the practical candidates remain 18ct gold in its three colours, 9ct gold, and platinum. 18ct keeps the rich colour and the standing that suits a fine stone; 9ct is harder-wearing and thriftier but paler and, to our eye, less flattering under warm-toned gems. Platinum is dense — the same design weighs noticeably more, and is priced accordingly — but its neutral white never needs re-plating and holds claws well over decades, which is why it remains our default recommendation under pale and cool-toned stones. What we counsel against is the quiet substitution error: trimming the stone budget to preserve a heavy mount. Wear the metal lightly; let the stone be the extravagance.
> Spend where the rarity is. Gold is priced by the gram everywhere on earth; a fine stone is priced by whether you can find another.
The gold you already own
Third — and this is the cheerful part — the same repricing applies to metal you already have. The unworn jewellery in most Australian family drawers is, at current metal prices, a meaningful asset by weight alone. Remounting is how we like to see it used: a client's inherited stones resettled into a ring designed around them, with the old gold traded against the work. It is the most economical route to a bespoke piece we know of, and it is the kind of commission our workshop takes through /pages/design-your-ring — the stone assessed first, the metal weighed and credited honestly, the design built around what is actually there. If you do one thing this week, do this: gather the unworn pieces, have them weighed, and update your insurance valuations while you are at it, because a valuation written before gold's run understates both metal and, in many cases, the stone.
Colour suits the moment
There is a style dividend too. Professional Jeweller's forecast for 2026 reports jewel-toned palettes across the season's runways, mixed-metal styling displacing single-metal minimalism, and a 21 per cent three-month rise in searches for gemstone rings (Professional Jeweller, 2026 trend forecast). Fashion is weather, not climate, and we would never suggest buying a sapphire because a runway did. But the practical point stands: coloured stones flatter both gold tones, a parti sapphire will happily live in yellow, rose or white metal, and a well-chosen stone outlasts every styling cycle it passes through. When the metal is the expensive part, the argument for putting your money into the part that is actually rare — the stone — has never needed less making. Buy the gem generously and the mount sensibly; the reverse order is how most jewellery budgets go wrong.
- Gold's record run has repriced finished jewellery even where loose stones have not moved, so always have the stone and mount priced separately, in writing.
- Metal is close to a commodity cost with little negotiating room; the stone carries the discretionary margin, and per-carat comparison only works on an unbundled price.
- Unworn family gold is now a meaningful asset by weight — remounting inherited pieces, with old metal credited against the work, is the most economical route to a bespoke ring.
- Update insurance valuations written before the metal run, and put the generous half of the budget into the stone: the mount is replaceable at any jeweller, the right stone is not.
The Diamond Lesson: Lab-Grown and the Two Markets
Laboratory-grown diamonds rewrote one market inside a decade — and the coloured stone world is studying the lesson with uncomfortable attention.
The gem market with the most to teach coloured stone buyers this decade is, in our view, not a coloured one. It is the diamond market, where laboratory-grown stones went from curiosity to commonplace with astonishing speed, and their prices — chemically identical to natural, produced at will — fell away from natural prices year after year until the two became, commercially, different products sharing a name. Whatever one thinks of either product, the structural lesson is now visible to everyone: when a gem's identity can be manufactured, its price divides into what the material costs to make and what the rarity story was worth. The material kept the beauty. The rarity story kept the money.
Colour inherits the customers
The first consequence for coloured stones has been straightforwardly good for them. Christie's full-year review of 2025 reported bidders swerving toward coloured gemstones — emeralds, rubies, sapphires, record-setting interest in Paraíba tourmaline — while white-diamond demand merely stabilised (Rapaport News, 2 March 2026). In the bridal market, American retailers report coloured stones surging, driven partly by couples wanting distinction from now-ubiquitous lab-grown diamonds and partly by colour's price advantage over comparable natural diamonds, with sapphire, emerald, tourmaline, spessartine and peridot all named beneficiaries (JCK, 4 June 2026). Sapphire's bridal standing, long buoyed by royal association, has only strengthened. Distinctiveness, it turns out, is a durable luxury. A fine sapphire cannot be ordered in bulk to a specification, and buyers have noticed.
The lesson, stated
Put the diamond decade into one sentence and it reads: when identity can be manufactured, price divides into the cost of making the material and the value of the story that can no longer be told about it. Nothing about that sentence is specific to diamonds. It is a law about rarity claims, and it cuts both ways. It explains why lab-grown diamond prices behaved like the prices of any manufactured good, and equally why natural stones with verifiable rarity — documented origin, untreated status, a biography — have held their standing while undocumented goods drift toward commodity treatment. The market is not punishing naturals or synthetics. It is punishing vagueness, and paying for proof.
Could it happen to colour?
The harder question is whether coloured stones face the same divergence. Synthetic corundum is not new — flame-fusion material has existed since the early twentieth century — and laboratory-grown sapphire, ruby and emerald are all commercially available today. Yet the natural coloured market has not split the way diamond did, for two structural reasons. Coloured stone value was never anchored to a uniform grading scale that a factory could satisfy; it is anchored to origin, character and rarity narratives that manufacturing cannot copy. And the laboratories can tell the difference. Origin and treatment analysis — the machinery this series keeps urging you to use — is precisely the infrastructure that keeps natural and grown goods in separate price universes.
That infrastructure is being probed, which is why disclosure vigilance is rising, not falling. A Fall 2025 GIA lab note documented laboratory-grown sapphire that had been quench-crackled and dyed — deliberately fractured and coloured to mimic natural material — with the treatment's uniform, web-like fracture pattern serving as a key identification clue (GIA, Gems & Gemology Lab Notes, 17 November 2025). And GIA research published the same month showed that heating corundum at temperatures as low as 850°C can intensify yellow and orange colour while altering the 3161 cm⁻¹ infrared band that laboratories frequently lean on as supporting evidence a sapphire is unheated — a finding with direct consequences for no-heat certification, and a reminder that the no-heat premium rests on laboratory work that must keep advancing to stay ahead (GIA, Gems & Gemology, 17 November 2025).
> A laboratory-grown stone is not a fake. A laboratory-grown stone sold as natural is.
The honest version of both
Our position is the series' position on every treatment and every product: legitimacy lives in disclosure. A laboratory-grown sapphire, plainly described and priced as manufactured material, is an honest object. The sin — the only sin — is the grown stone in the natural stone's price bracket, the undisclosed treatment wearing an unheated premium. Under long-standing nomenclature convention, an unqualified species name means natural; anything grown must say so. This is why every stone we list is assessed by Anna in Sydney before it is offered, why each carries its Digital Gemstone Passport, and why our re-authentication service exists for the life of the stone: in a market where the counterfeit of interest is no longer glass but biography, the paperwork is part of the gem. Buy natural for rarity, honestly priced — or grown for chemistry, honestly priced. The word that matters is not natural. It is honestly.
- Lab-grown diamonds split one market into two products sharing a name — and pushed buyers toward coloured stones, with auction houses and bridal retailers both reporting the shift through 2025 and 2026.
- Natural coloured stones have resisted the same divergence because their value rests on origin and rarity narratives manufacturing cannot copy, policed by laboratories that can separate grown from natural.
- The frontier is being probed: GIA documented quench-crackled, dyed laboratory-grown sapphire in late 2025, and showed low-temperature heating can disturb evidence labs use to support no-heat findings.
- A grown stone honestly described is a legitimate product; the only sin is manufactured or treated material wearing a natural, untreated price — so insist the stone's full identity appears in writing.
Words That Move Money: Terminology and Disclosure
The trade is finally agreeing on what its own words mean — and for private buyers, harmonised language is worth more than any single certificate.
What does "ethically sourced" mean on a gemstone listing? At the time of writing: whatever the seller would like it to mean. The same is true of "sustainable", "traceable", "recycled gold" and half the vocabulary of modern jewellery marketing. These words move money — buyers pay premiums for them — yet most have had no agreed definition anywhere in the trade. A quietly under-reported story of the past two years is that this is changing, and we think it will do more for ordinary buyers than any auction record.
Defining the sourcing words
CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation that maintains the trade's nomenclature standards, has set its Supply Chain Nomenclature Committee to build a standardised, defined vocabulary for exactly these claims: responsibly, ethically and sustainably sourced; traceability and chain of custody; terms such as recycled, artisanally mined and legacy material (JNA, 7 November 2024, reporting the CIBJO Congress in Shanghai). The point of defined terms is not bureaucratic tidiness. It is that a defined claim can be false — and a claim that can be false can be demanded, checked and relied upon. When "responsibly sourced" acquires a definition, the seller who prints it is making a statement of fact, not a mood.
Opal gets its rulebook
The same movement has reached a stone close to Australian hearts. An international working group of opal specialists from Australia, Mexico, Brazil and Ethiopia, working with the major laboratories, has drafted a CIBJO Opal Guide setting classification criteria for all opal varieties, treatment categories and disclosure requirements, with the new jade and opal guides and an updated pearl guide expected complete by the 2026 Congress (CIBJO, 2025). The Australian Opal Association expects the Opal Guide to launch in September 2026, alongside a new Gemmological Association of Australia opal course, and its president argues opal is shifting from tourist souvenir to international luxury material (Jeweller Magazine, 9 March 2026). The same report notes the Australian trade now courts provenance-minded younger buyers with British Vogue's description of Lightning Ridge black opal as "the most ethical and sustainable gemstone". Our opal handbook taught the stone itself; what is new is that its classification and disclosure rules are about to be written down where every seller can be held to them.
Laboratories raise their floor
Standards are moving inside the laboratories too. CIBJO's Gemmological Commission has completed an extended edition of its Gemmological Laboratories Blue Book, covering management and technical requirements, test protocols and accepted nomenclature for running a gem lab (CIBJO Gemmology Special Report, 2025) — the quiet plumbing that makes one lab's words comparable to another's. And the largest laboratory of all has rebuilt its consumer-facing documents: from 1 January 2026, GIA issues redesigned coloured stone reports built around richer visual storytelling, and extends country-of-origin services to opal, peridot and demantoid garnet, beyond a roster that already covered alexandrite, emerald, Paraíba tourmaline, red spinel, ruby and sapphire (National Jeweler, 2025). A new fee structure for coloured stone services arrived alongside the redesign (JCK, 10 December 2025). More species with origin opinions, more readable reports, more harmonised vocabulary: every piece of this shifts power toward the person holding the invoice.
> Disclosure is not paperwork attached to the price. Disclosure is the price telling the truth.
What to do with better words
The practical translation of this chapter is a habit this series has urged from its first volume, now with sharper teeth: get the words on the invoice. Species, natural or laboratory-grown, treatment status, origin if claimed, and any sourcing claim the seller has advertised — in plain words, not stock codes. Ask what a claim means and who defines it; from September 2026, for opal at least, there is an answer. A seller fluent in the new vocabulary is telling you something about their standards. A seller who bristles at being asked is telling you something too.
- CIBJO's Supply Chain Nomenclature Committee is building defined, standardised meanings for sourcing claims such as responsibly sourced, traceable, recycled and artisanally mined — turning marketing moods into checkable statements of fact.
- A CIBJO Opal Guide covering classification, treatment categories and disclosure for all opal varieties is expected to launch around September 2026, alongside a new Gemmological Association of Australia opal course.
- From 1 January 2026 GIA issues redesigned coloured stone reports and extends origin services to opal, peridot and demantoid garnet, while CIBJO's expanded Blue Book harmonises how laboratories themselves operate.
- Better-defined words only help buyers who use them: insist that species, growth, treatment, origin and any advertised sourcing claim appear on the invoice in plain language.
The Private Buyer in 2026: Reading the Weather
None of this news is a reason to buy a gemstone — but all of it is a reason to buy one better.
Here is the turn this book has been building toward. Nothing in the preceding chapters obliges you to do anything. Records were set; you were not the underbidder. Mines thinned; your ring does not know. The value of market intelligence to a private buyer is not that it tells you to act — it is that when you do choose to act, for the human reasons people have always bought gemstones, you walk in knowing what the seller knows. That is the entire advantage on offer, and it is larger than it sounds.
The investment truth, again
First, the warning this series repeats in every volume, now with the year's numbers attached. Rapaport Magazine cites projections that the coloured gemstone market will grow from US$4.3 billion in 2024 to US$6.4 billion by 2030, and notes that Paraíba tourmaline prices rose more than 400 per cent between 2012 and 2022 (Rapaport Magazine, 28 January 2026). We quote these figures to explain why competition for fine goods is intensifying — not to suggest your stone will do anything of the kind. A private buyer pays retail, sells wholesale if at all, waits months for a buyer, and holds a deeply illiquid asset in between. Gems are a store of beauty, memory and craft; treat any dealer's talk of appreciation as a reason to walk, not to reach for a card. Buy what you love, informed. That is the whole doctrine.
Where the 2026 edge lives
Read this year's weather back through the buyer's eyes and the map draws itself. The middle of the market is soft — the trade said so itself at Tucson — so the mid-priced buyer should compare unhurriedly and negotiate without apology. The trade's own professionals are migrating budgets into garnet, spinel and red tourmaline; the quiet species our Field Guide covers remain the best value-per-beauty in the coloured world, in our experience. Honest heated sapphire and disclosed oiled emerald sit outside the supply squeeze entirely, and deliver most of the beauty for a fraction of the untreated price. Australian sapphire is enjoying international demand its price has not fully caught. And every premium the record-setters paid for — origin, no-heat, documentation — is exactly where a mid-market buyer must demand evidence, because premiums attract pretenders. Judge colour as this series has always taught: unhurried, in daylight, by a south-facing window here in Sydney or a north-facing one in the northern hemisphere.
> The prepared buyer is paid twice: once in the price, and once in the peace.
Ten questions for 2026
The series checklist, updated for the year's news. Ask them of anyone, including us; the longer answers live in our handbooks and at /pages/faq.
1. Is this stone natural or laboratory-grown, in writing? An unqualified species name must mean natural; make the seller say so on paper. 2. Is it treated, and how, in plain words? Heat, oil, resin, filling, diffusion — named, not coded, on the invoice. 3. What would this stone cost with the standard treatment? The size of the untreated premium tells you how much proof you are entitled to. 4. What is the per-carat price? Convert every quote; bundled ring prices hide the number that matters. 5. Which laboratory supports any origin or no-heat claim, and how recent is the report? Laboratory methods moved in 2025; a fresh report from a major lab outranks an old certificate. 6. Can I verify the report directly with the laboratory? Report numbers exist to be checked, not framed. 7. What exactly does your sourcing claim mean? "Ethical" and "traceable" are acquiring definitions; ask which one the seller is using. 8. What is the stone-only price, without the mount? Gold has repriced the frame; negotiate the picture separately. 9. What are the return terms, in writing? Daylight and a second opinion require days, not minutes at a counter. 10. Would you write all of the above on the invoice? The one question that compresses the other nine. Hesitation is an answer.
The quiet advantage
A year of records makes noise, and noise makes hurry, and hurry is the seller's friend. The buyer who has read the trade's own intelligence — who knows the middle is soft, the top is thin, the words are tightening and the paperwork is strengthening — does not hurry. That composure, at the counter, is worth more than any discount code ever printed.
- Market intelligence gives a private buyer one advantage — walking in knowing what the seller knows — and it changes how you buy, never whether gems belong in a financial plan.
- Growth projections and Paraíba's decade of price rises explain intensifying competition for fine goods; they are not evidence any private purchase will appreciate, and appreciation talk from a seller is a warning.
- The 2026 edge lives in the soft middle market, the quiet species, honest disclosed treatments and Australian sapphire — with hard evidence demanded wherever a premium is claimed.
- The ten questions compress to one: a seller who will put species, growth, treatment, origin, sourcing and terms on the invoice in plain words has answered them all.
House Notes: After a Year of Records
A closing word from the house — on records, custodianship, and why the only price that matters is the one in front of you.
From the desk in Sydney where every one of our stones is assessed, the year of records looks smaller than it does in the headlines, and the stones look larger. That is the perspective we want to leave you with. A record is an event in the life of a market. A stone is a participant in the lives of people, and it outlasts every market it passes through. The Kashmir sapphire that made news in June 2026 had already survived a century of booms, wars, fashions and owners before it reached that saleroom, and it will outlive whatever the next century's markets do too. Custodianship, not ownership, is the honest name for what any of us have.
Why the reporting continues
This volume joins a library we give away, and it is fair to ask why a house that sells gemstones publishes the sort of intelligence that makes buyers harder to impress. The answer has not changed since our first handbook. We are participants in this market — a family house, three generations in the Ceylon gem fields since the 1960s, with our own mines and our own cutting benches — and participants do best, over generations, in a trade that buyers trust. Every undisclosed treatment discovered in a family ring, every grown stone sold on a natural price, damages the thing our grandchildren are supposed to inherit: not the stock, the confidence. Educated buyers are the cheapest insurance this industry has ever been offered, and most of it still declines to pay the premium. We pay it in ink.
What the year asked of us
A year like this one sharpens a house's obligations rather than changing them. Scarcer fine goods mean the assessment of each stone matters more, so nothing is listed until Anna has examined it in Sydney, and its treatment status is written where the buyer will read it. Tightening trade vocabulary means our own descriptions must meet the standard before anyone requires it. And a market increasingly built on paperwork means the paperwork must travel: each of our stones carries its Digital Gemstone Passport, and our re-authentication service stands behind every piece for its lifetime, because a stone's biography should never again depend on somebody's memory. This year we also finished putting our own provenance on film — Echoes from the Mine, shot twenty metres underground in our Ceylon shafts, and From Wax to Gold, on the benches of our jewellery workshop — because a house that asks the trade for transparency should be easy to inspect itself.
The library, one volume larger
This report joins the handbooks on the same shelf — sapphire, ruby, emerald, opal, the field guide to the wider species, the pricing book and the engagement volume — and it is the one that will age. That is by design. The handbooks teach what a stone is, and stones do not change; this volume records what a year did, and years always end. Read it accordingly: the numbers will date, the method will not. The habits it leans on — per-carat thinking, daylight viewing, treatment status in plain words — are the same ones every earlier volume taught, and they will still be the whole of the game when these particular records are footnotes.
> Markets have years. Stones have centuries.
The custodian's close
So close the book the way we opened it, with the client who asked whether she had left it too late. She had not, and neither have you, because the market described in these pages was never a race. The records will keep falling or they will not; the middle will soften and firm; the words will keep tightening, to everyone's benefit. What does not change is the transaction that matters — one person, one stone, one honest piece of paper between them. Whenever that moment comes for you, this year or in ten, the standard is the one this series has always set. Ask the questions. Read the report. Have the invoice written in plain words. And then set the paperwork down and apply the only test that has ever mattered in this trade: buy the stone you cannot stop looking at. It will still be beautiful long after 2026 is a line in a price chart — and you, if you have done this properly, will have been worthy of it.
- A record is an event in a market's year; a fine stone outlasts every market it passes through, which makes custodianship the honest name for ownership.
- The house publishes market intelligence free because a trade trusted by educated buyers is the inheritance that matters most to a three-generation family business.
- A year of thinning fine goods and tightening vocabulary raises the standard: every stone assessed in Sydney before listing, treatment in writing, and documentation that travels with the gem for life.
- The market was never a race — whenever your moment comes, ask the questions, read the report, get plain words on the invoice, and buy the stone you cannot stop looking at.
Prefer it as a book?
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Referenced in this handbook: The Price of Colour · Sapphire Price Guide. Every stone we sell is assessed in-house by our FGAA-qualified gemmologist, with treatment disclosed.