Some of the most moving commissions in our workshop begin with a piece nobody wears: grandmother's ring in a drawer, an inherited brooch from another era. The stones are beloved; the setting belongs to a different life. Resetting bridges that gap — and doing it well is equal parts gemmology, design and tact.
First: assessment, honestly
Every heirloom starts at the bench with our FGAA gemmologist. We check the stone's identity (family lore is charming and frequently wrong), its condition — worn facet edges, chips hidden by old claws — and whether it was treated, using the same standards as our treatments guide. You receive the truth kindly delivered: what the stone is, what it needs, what it can become.
To recut or not
Decades of wear soften a stone's edges and dull its fire. A skilled recut restores brilliance — at the cost of some weight, which for sentimental stones can feel like sacrilege. Our rule: recut for damage, hesitate for style. An old-cut stone's character is often the very thing worth keeping.
Designing around memory
The brief is different from a fresh commission: the new piece must honour the old one. Sometimes that means echoing the original era — our style periods guide helps name it — sometimes a clean modern setting that lets an antique stone surprise. Side stones from the old piece can become anniversary gifts or earrings for siblings; nothing is wasted, least of all meaning.
What about the old gold?
Old settings can be melted toward the new piece or kept intact as keepsakes. Practical note: recasting old alloys is possible but imperfect; many clients keep the empty setting and let new metal carry the stone forward.
The process
It runs exactly like a bespoke commission — conversation, design, approval, crafting in our own workshop — with one addition: extra care of custody for irreplaceable stones, documented at every step under our guarantee. Bring the drawer's treasure in; the best heirlooms are the ones being worn.
Continue your gem education
Commissioning Bespoke Jewellery · Jewellery Style Periods · Anniversary Gemstones · browse all Gem Guides — or explore design your own ring.